Weaving
Weaving is the process of creating fabric from two separate
elements of yarn: the warp is fixed to the rigid frame
of the loom and the weft is interlaced. Most looms incorporate
a way to make the shed, or space where the weft is inserted.
Simple or complex, plain or decorated, the loom is the
technical starting point of a weaver's creativity.
The oldest known depiction of a loom comes from an Egyptian
dish dated 4400 BCE. It shows a horizontal ground loom
used to weave linen cloth. Some posts sunk into the ground
and a few sticks make this one of the simplest, and thus
possibly earliest, looms known. It continues to be used
in the Middle East, Iran, and North Africa.
Looms come in all sizes. A weaver uses a group of small
square cards with holes in each corner to weave belts
and bands. Ribbon or band looms from Northern Europe are
one small piece of wood. A back-strap loom consists of
a number of sticks and a belt to encircle the weaver's
waist. These looms can only weave cloth as wide as the
weaver's body and need an attachment point to create the
necessary tension to weave. Back strap or body tensioned
looms are common in many parts of the world. Intricate
patterning is achieved through the use of extra heddles,
shed sticks, or picking up by hand. The weaving process,
the same with any loom, is slow but offers almost infinite
decorative possibilities depending on the skill of the
weaver and the time devoted to the work.
Floor looms are much larger tools, usually built of wood
with foot treadles that operate the harnesses to make
the shed. The weaver sits or stands at the loom and, with
the help of a shuttle that glides across the warp, weaves
a much wider cloth than is possible on a smaller loom.
The history of the floor loom, from its murky origins
to all the complex developments including the Chinese
and Syrian draw looms, the flying shuttle, and the jacquard
loom that contributed to the mechanized and computerized
looms used today to produce all kinds of fabrics, is fascinating
and far too lengthy to delve into here.
Male weavers in West Africa use a unique loom. Although
it has treadles like a floor loom it is portable and small,
making a strip only as wide as the beater and usually
no more than 4-5 inches wide. The loom is set up every
day in a small roofed shed. The heddle pulley is attached
to a beam and the treadles are attached to the heddles
by a cord. When the weaver is finished he rolls the loom
and the weaving into a compact bundle and brings it inside.
Vertical looms were used in the ancient world and today
are used in Nigeria, North Africa, Southwest United States,
Turkey and many other places to weave a wider cloth and
carpets. There are no treadles and the weaver sits on
the ground or a low chair to weave. In central Africa,
a small vertical loom is used to weave raphia--fiber obtained
from the leaf of the raphia palm. The European high-warp
tapestry loom is a variation of the vertical loom. The
stunning designs and high quality of the work produced
in northern Europe from the 14th -18th centuries offer
ample proof that the skill of the weaver is more important
than the level of the technology used to produce a work
of art.
Tapestry is a weave as well as a product. Navajo and Rio
Grande rugs and blankets are woven in tapestry technique
as are Swedish wedding textiles, Turkish kilims, and Chinese
bedding and clothing fabrics among others. Tapestry technique
can be woven with fine or heavy yarns using any fiber.
Weavers work with many different tools-a warping board
or paddle is used to measure out the warp yarns, different
types of shuttles hold the yarn during weaving, picks
of wood or bone help a weaver to make a pattern, a wooden
sword holds the shed up in a body tensioned loom, and
various types of beaters are used to place the weft correctly.
Sprang, an ancient method of producing fabric, also uses
a loom. The earliest examples are from Peru (ca. 1100
BCE) and in Europe, from Denmark (ca. 1400 BCE). The simple
frame is warped and those yarns are then manipulated by
interlacing, intertwining, and interlocking to create
a stretchy, knit-like fabric with various patterns.
Vocabulary
Cloth - a material made by weaving, felting or knitting
natural or synthetic fibers
Fabric - synonym for cloth
Fiber - a long hair-like component of plant or animal
tissue
Loom - a frame to support for interlacing threads at right
angles to make cloth
Shuttle - a stick or other device used to pass the weft
thread between the warp threads
Synthetic - man made as opposed to naturally occurring
Textile - anything made by people from fibrous materials
Thread - fibers twisted together to form a continuous
strand used for sewing or embroidery
Vegetal - of or related to plants
Warp - a series of yarns extended lengthwise on the loom
Weft - a thread or yarn used in weaving to fill in between
the warp
Yarn - a continuous strand made of natural or man-made
fibers used in knitting, weaving, crocheting and other
forms of textile production
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