Coat (Chikarkarpe)

The remarkable Meiji-period robe seen here was made by appliqueing pure white cotton fabric over the entire surface of a dark Japanese-made cotton kimono. Typical symmetrical Ainu moreu motifs are greatly enlarged and simplified. Stunningly rhythmic, the swirling patterns are created by a thin line of stitches paralleling wider lines where the white applique has been cut out to reveal the black striped ground cloth beneath. A robe with white applique designs, such as this, was worn at funerals and other ritual occasions.