Mens' Hats (Ashetu)

Men in the Grassfields region of Cameroon in West Africa display their status and wealth in their elaborate knitted and crocheted hats, which are masterpieces of inventive design. In recent times, these caps, known as ashetu, have become emblems of national dress, although there are recognizable variations that distinguish local identities. The techniques used in making the caps are quite old and some observers have suggested that the modern, cotton and felt hats, are based on older models made of raffia, elephant tail, and porcupine quills. The protruding burls and spikes on these hats also may imitate older hair styles, as they are depicted on wooden sculpture. Contemporary ashetu are made of imported yarns and felt and the burls are stuffed with wood, raffia sticks, and more rarely today, with porcupine quills. Felt patches are inserted between knit or crocheted sections, which adds color contrast to the overall design.